Svalbard: Into the Wild

Flying into Svalbard was a very cool experience. We left Tromso around 22.40 and as we flew north the sky grew lighter. I had reached the midnight sun! I didn’t have any trouble sleeping while I was there, but a) I love afternoon naps in the sun and b) We were constantly on the go and sleep deprived.

The first day we arrived we were whisked away to safety training where we were scared into taking Svalbard very seriously by grim tales of frost-bite, avalanches, deadly parasites if you eat the snow and the cost of a helicopter rescue. And of course what to do about polar bears. As per UNIS regulations we took the mandatory ‘Rifle Handling and Polar Bear Protection’ course. Now not to boast or anything, but I was the best shot in the class (and I really enjoyed it). Bring on the charging bears!

Rifle Handling and Polar Bear Protection

Shooting polar bears is very serious business and must only be done as a last resort for self- defense (aka. the bear is coming for you). UNIS has only been responsible for the killing of 1 bear since it was founded, but invariably every year several polar bears are shot in Svalbard. If a bear is shot, the Govenor of Svalbard must be contacted immediately, he will send a CSI-style investigation out to determine if it was in fact a case of self-defense (if not be prepared for a masssive fine and to be kicked off the island and be put on the ‘do not enter’ list). An autopsy is done on the bear in the name of science. If the flesh is still good after this all happens, the meat is either sold to local restaurants or I even heard of being distributed to the daycares in Longyearbyen. The pelt is sold in a charity auction.

We spent two days out in the field on Van Mijenfjorden, south of Longyearbyen. We travelled around 50 km over land to reach the sites. Once out of town, it became evident how important it was to have the proper gear. You really are playing with life and death out in the High Arctic. UNIS provided us with all the gear necessary for our expedition like a tent, rifles and snowmobiles and including suiting us up to face the elements.
Our loaned personal effects:
– Snowmobile suit
– Snowmobile gloves
– Helmet
– Search beacon
– Balaclava
– Boots
– Ice picks
– Goggles

Our group taking refuge in near white out conditions

Packed sledges

At our sampling site on the ice we cut a hole into the 1 m thick ice to draw samples from. We were interested in the zooplankton communities underneath the ice. We also took hydrography measurements using a CTD. More importantly, the two Canadians in the group built an inukshuk out of the ice blocks from the hole ‘to make sure no one drives a sled in’. Out on the ice we also saw several seals, despite being km’s from the ice shelf.

Field site on Van Mijenfjord

Inukshuk

Our camp was set on land in a valley to protect us from the wind. We camped in relative luxury; Our tent had a paraffin heater and there was always thermoses full of hot water for tea. We did run out of hot chocolate early in the evening and tea followed suit by 5 am, leaving coffee which was a necessity for the drive back to town. In any event, despite the toasty warmth of the tent, it could only really sleep 8 people at a time. While we worked in 3 hour shifts taking samples, we got pretty efficient and spent lots of overlapping time at camp, so the sleep deprived got pretty creative when it came to beds.

Sleeping beauties - one for each skidoo

Four polar bears were known to be in the area of the fjord we were working on, including a mother and cub. We were ever vigilant with two people on polar bear watch at all times. If you went to the latrine (we had to pack out our poo) up the hill and around the corner a bit, someone stood watch with a rifle over you. But alas it was all for not. All we got were a bunch of reindeer on the other side of the valley, which always looked suspiciously like a polar bear from the distance.

While we were blessed with great weather for most of our fieldwork as we took down camp the winds picked up and snow moved in. It was a ways off white-out conditions but it was more than enough for someone to get lost easily. We tried to drive in a tight pack, but the conditions worsened and we took refuge in (broke into with permission) a cabin for an hour or two.

Back out on the trail it became an adventure. Sleds got stuck and rolled over. I rolled mine! I knew I was going to struggle with the snowmobile and sledge in one part and I tried my hardest to counteract the weight and balance it, but in the end it was tipping over and there was nothing my leaning and pulling could do about it. Should have had the extra piece of cake! In the end no equipment or people were hurt (aside from some bruised egos).