Yet again today is a holiday. Another long weekend. Once again I have run out of milk, bread and peanut butter because while I can make it through no Sunday shopping, I can’t plan far enough ahead for no Monday shopping either.

6 of Norway’s 17 holidays and observances are in May. Why do Norwegians hate working in May?

“We actually love to work. That’s why we celebrate all workers on 1st of May. We also love Jesus apparently, so of course we have to celebrate him for at least three days. Lastly we are the biggest patriots on earth, so we need a couple of days to celebrate beating the germans and becoming civilized by adopting our constitution. ” -Geir

I think it is because by the time May rolls around, the weather may hint at spring and all the Norwegians with their winter cabin fever come out of hiding. My evidence for this theory is the sheer number of people out hiking today. And by hinting at spring I mean it reached a balmy 6’C today.

“The Fishermen Fish For Fish”

As part of the aquaculture semester package at Høgskolen i Bodø I have an aquaculture lab/work placement. Recently, I spent a week working at a smolt production farm in Høpen, approximately 10 km from the school. The farm was part of Mainstream, a global salmon producer with facilities in Norway, Canada, Chile and Scotland that produces over 120 000 tons annually.

First, smolts are young salmon which have undergone the necessary physiological and behavioural changes to make the transition from fresh to salt water. In nature this is migration from river to sea, in aquaculture this is the transfer from land-based production to sea cages. The smolt farm rears little salmon from egg to smolt. In nature the length of time this process takes varies from 1 to 5 years. On the farm, smolts are produced in approx. 8 months due to light and temperature regimes and good nutrition.

The farm had at least a couple million fish ranging from 2 cm fry to smolts ready to go to sea after grading and vaccinations. I got the opportunity to work with all the stages on the farm, but like most animal farms the majority of the work was feeding and maintaining hygiene. ‘Maintaining hygiene’ meant (among other cleaning) pick out the dead fish daily, which is easier said than done in a tank of 120,000 fish. A lot of time was also spent ‘observing’, I’m not sure if that is the usual protocol or if they just ran out of tasks for me.

Even though I knew the theory, working hands-on at the farm was an invaluable experience. Information was absorbed much faster and kept in context. I bet I’ll do better on my aquaculture exam because of it!

Smolt tanks

Fry tanks

Pumping fish

Covered parr tanks

Spring has sprung. In the last week, the weather has finally warmed (aka. it didn’t snow) and green has burst forth. It has been amazing how fast the transformation has taken place. But to keep things in perspective; yesterday was a stellar day but still only had a high of 8’C. I have seized the day and am trying to take advantage of every ray of sunshine and warmth.

Zoe and I biked to the historic fort, Nyholms  Skandsen, out on the harbour point in the city. The fort is located on the adjacent side of the harbour from the city center so there was a lovely view of the city from the water. Nyholms Skandsen is 200 years old and was never used in battle. During German occupation the fort was altered with artillery and bunkers. However, the community has been restoring the site to it’s original plans: a bunch of cannons (essentially). It is a very nice picnic area too.

Nyholms Skandsen

I’ve hiked Keiservarden, a peak over-looking the city, twice in the past 3 days. Once with a group of girls and once by myself. The view from the top is incredible! You can see all the way to the Lofoten Islands and the myriad of rocky and mountainous islands around Saltenfjorden and along the coast. On my own I took a less travelled route down. My shoes got wet but I came across fresh moose tracks and pellets (and a lot of old pellets).

Looking North-East from Keiservarden

Near the trail head of Keiservarden I found another trail going up the cliffs overlooking the city. The view was incredible. As I sat watching the city pass beneath my feet, jazz music starting drifting up across the city from the city center. It was a very surreal experience. Being above the city I was far enough away from the ambient noise of being on the ground so I could hear the music clearly despite a couple km distance.

View from the lookout

Back to studying for finals!

Nyholms Skandsen

Keiservarden

Looking North-East from Keiservarden

Bodo

Bodo

View from the lookout

Fresh Shrimp for Sale

On the 17th of May a strange things happen…

Norwegians begin to smile. They laugh out loud, greet people in the streets, and wish strangers a good day.
Women get caught in a time warp, dressing to the nines in traditional attire.

It is of course, Norwegian Constitution Day!

In the morning I watched the local children’s parade, the 17th of May is sometimes referred to as the ‘Children’s Day’. All the kids from the local Morkved schools paraded through the streets together with parents joining in the procession as they passed. The parade split up at each school, where each school put on their own festivities. Zoe has some relatives with a boy in one of the local schools, so we went to hear to see the festivities including choirs, bands, speeches, cakes, games and lots of ice creams!

Ice creams were definitely the food of choice for the day. Everyone had one in hand!

The student association put on a little lunch celebration thing with hot dogs before shipping us off on buses downtown for the parade and celebrations.

Almost everyone was dressed up in the city. Almost all women were wearing dresses, traditional or not and most men were wearing suits. That would nevvvverrrrr happen at home, especially for a day to celebrate outside. I was told by a Norwegian friend a couple days beforehand to ‘wear a dress, it is never too cold for a dress on the 17th of May no matter what the weather is’.

Before catching the parade, the usual suspects and I enjoyed a drink on the patio of a cafe; soaking up the sun and watching with astonishment the transformation of the usually reserved Norwegians into bubbly warm people.

My favourite part of the day were the bunads – the traditional Norwegian dress, which is worn to special occasions now. The dresses worn by the women were gorgeous: Long coloured wool, silver embellishments and lots of detailed embroidery. The bunad is a highly regional garment, each area has its own design and women take the bunad of their home region. The design of bunads is carefully regulated. Men are less likely to wear the bunad, instead they most commonly wear their best suits. Apparently men often don’t want to wear the bunad until the turn 40ish, the younger guys I teased about this said it was more because they couldn’t afford a bunad until they were 40!

Bunads are crazy expensive, the local bunad which is somewhere in the middle in terms of details is around $4000 CDN. Girls often get given a bunad in their late teens, sometimes for confirmation, and that is sort of their ‘one-shot deal’. Bunads are infamous for ‘shrinking’ each winter and needing to be let out each spring!

I was told, if I marry a Norwegian I could adopt his bunad – so I had better be careful to check out his region’s bunad before I marry!

Nordland's Bunad

Detail on the men's and women's bunad

Photo credits to Cindy!

At some point in Svalbard we had to go to ‘indoor school’. After all, we are students.

Over the remainder of the trip we had a couple lectures given by various members of UNIS and spent a couple of afternoons in the lab processing and analyzing the samples we took. We split the samples down (to take a smaller subset) and then analyzed the zooplankton community under the microscopes. Calanus were of particular interest because they are the staple of the marine food web.

Calanus hyperboreus

Working in the lab

I was fortunate enough to volunteer to set the gill nets for our second experiment. The three of us who braved the early morning wake up found out that instead of going out on the water for an hour like we had thought, we’d be joining another student group and spend the whole day out in Isfjorden. We were blessed with great sunny weather for the first half of the trip, then the sun disappeared and it got downright chilly! We steamed through some drift ice and saw some seals lazing on the floating chunks. Originally the other group was planning to do 3 survey sites including one along the ice shelf (seal and polar bear country!), but alas they opted for just two. After five or so hours out on the boat, we hauled up our gill net. Empty. Completely.

Out on the water

A group of us went and explored the Santa Claus mine, an old coal mine right up the mountain from out barracks. It was a lot steeper than we thought to scramble up! The mine was complete with christmas lights and we found Rudolph, or at least a Rudolph carcass. All historic industry buildings and whatever are protected from destruction by Svalbard law.

Santa Claus Mine

The last night in Svalbard we partied together, with many celebrating the cheap wine available. After all, we are students.

Which made it difficult for many to work on our report during our layover in Tromso the next day.

Working in the lab

Our Yacht

Longyearbyen

Drift ice on Isfjorden

Out on the water

Santa Claus Mine

Santa Claus Mine

Santa Claus Mine

Flying into Svalbard was a very cool experience. We left Tromso around 22.40 and as we flew north the sky grew lighter. I had reached the midnight sun! I didn’t have any trouble sleeping while I was there, but a) I love afternoon naps in the sun and b) We were constantly on the go and sleep deprived.

The first day we arrived we were whisked away to safety training where we were scared into taking Svalbard very seriously by grim tales of frost-bite, avalanches, deadly parasites if you eat the snow and the cost of a helicopter rescue. And of course what to do about polar bears. As per UNIS regulations we took the mandatory ‘Rifle Handling and Polar Bear Protection’ course. Now not to boast or anything, but I was the best shot in the class (and I really enjoyed it). Bring on the charging bears!

Rifle Handling and Polar Bear Protection

Shooting polar bears is very serious business and must only be done as a last resort for self- defense (aka. the bear is coming for you). UNIS has only been responsible for the killing of 1 bear since it was founded, but invariably every year several polar bears are shot in Svalbard. If a bear is shot, the Govenor of Svalbard must be contacted immediately, he will send a CSI-style investigation out to determine if it was in fact a case of self-defense (if not be prepared for a masssive fine and to be kicked off the island and be put on the ‘do not enter’ list). An autopsy is done on the bear in the name of science. If the flesh is still good after this all happens, the meat is either sold to local restaurants or I even heard of being distributed to the daycares in Longyearbyen. The pelt is sold in a charity auction.

We spent two days out in the field on Van Mijenfjorden, south of Longyearbyen. We travelled around 50 km over land to reach the sites. Once out of town, it became evident how important it was to have the proper gear. You really are playing with life and death out in the High Arctic. UNIS provided us with all the gear necessary for our expedition like a tent, rifles and snowmobiles and including suiting us up to face the elements.
Our loaned personal effects:
– Snowmobile suit
– Snowmobile gloves
– Helmet
– Search beacon
– Balaclava
– Boots
– Ice picks
– Goggles

Our group taking refuge in near white out conditions

Packed sledges

At our sampling site on the ice we cut a hole into the 1 m thick ice to draw samples from. We were interested in the zooplankton communities underneath the ice. We also took hydrography measurements using a CTD. More importantly, the two Canadians in the group built an inukshuk out of the ice blocks from the hole ‘to make sure no one drives a sled in’. Out on the ice we also saw several seals, despite being km’s from the ice shelf.

Field site on Van Mijenfjord

Inukshuk

Our camp was set on land in a valley to protect us from the wind. We camped in relative luxury; Our tent had a paraffin heater and there was always thermoses full of hot water for tea. We did run out of hot chocolate early in the evening and tea followed suit by 5 am, leaving coffee which was a necessity for the drive back to town. In any event, despite the toasty warmth of the tent, it could only really sleep 8 people at a time. While we worked in 3 hour shifts taking samples, we got pretty efficient and spent lots of overlapping time at camp, so the sleep deprived got pretty creative when it came to beds.

Sleeping beauties - one for each skidoo

Four polar bears were known to be in the area of the fjord we were working on, including a mother and cub. We were ever vigilant with two people on polar bear watch at all times. If you went to the latrine (we had to pack out our poo) up the hill and around the corner a bit, someone stood watch with a rifle over you. But alas it was all for not. All we got were a bunch of reindeer on the other side of the valley, which always looked suspiciously like a polar bear from the distance.

While we were blessed with great weather for most of our fieldwork as we took down camp the winds picked up and snow moved in. It was a ways off white-out conditions but it was more than enough for someone to get lost easily. We tried to drive in a tight pack, but the conditions worsened and we took refuge in (broke into with permission) a cabin for an hour or two.

Back out on the trail it became an adventure. Sleds got stuck and rolled over. I rolled mine! I knew I was going to struggle with the snowmobile and sledge in one part and I tried my hardest to counteract the weight and balance it, but in the end it was tipping over and there was nothing my leaning and pulling could do about it. Should have had the extra piece of cake! In the end no equipment or people were hurt (aside from some bruised egos).

For the last week I’ve been in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago between 74′ and 81’N, with my marine ecology class. It is among the northern-most civilizations in the world. There are around 2200 people living in Svalbard in several communities. We spent time around 78′ N on the largest island, Spitsbergen. We were lured by tales of polar bears and the chance to study Arctic marine systems. Our class was based at the University Center in Svalbard (UNIS).

Svalbard is extraordinary.

Svalbard

Svalbard has a really neat and unusual history. It was colonized for whaling and trapping and then for its rich coal deposits. Many countries had economic interests on the islands and after WWI the Americans and Russians in particular were fighting for control. So a compromise was reached, Svalbard would be given to the very young and weak nation of Norway in the Treaty of Versailles. However, among the stipulations any country who has signed the treaty may freely enter and establish enterprise on Svalbard in accordance to Norwegian law. So Norway bought out many of the foreign owned mines on Svalbard to gain control and minimize economic interests on the islands. Also, any profits generated on by Svalbard (taxes etc) must stay on the island and not be given to Norway proper. So despite its remoteness many things in Svalbard are cheaper than on mainland Norway. Yay for tax free shopping!

On Spitsbergen, we were based out of the largest community in Svalbard, Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen is a surprisingly normal small town for a place so remote. If you ignore all the snowmobiles, reindeer, abandoned mines, rifle lockers in the stores and the occasional polar bear wandering through that is. There’s a couple bars and restaurants, 4 or so outdoor gear shops, a snowmobile dealership (no car dealership though), a grocery store and quite a few other shops mostly catering to the tourists.

West side of town

Svalbard has more polar bears than people. If you leave the town boundaries, you must be armed with a rifle. This rule was implemented after an incident in 1996 where two girls out hiking on the cliffs over looking town were attacked by a polar bear. One was killed and the other jumped off the cliff to ‘safety’, breaking both her legs and several other bones I’m sure.

The peak on the ridge is where the girl jumped from to save herself.

Reindeer in Svalbard are unique. They are smaller, have more cow-like heads, furrier noses, smaller hearts and lungs and move around less than their mainland counterparts. Largely this is because of the absence of predators. Polar bears will rarely hunt reindeers, although they will scavenge on carcasses.

Svalbard is 13% vegetated (tundra), 27% rock and 60% glacier. I -know- the Arctic is a desert, but it doesn’t prepare you for the vast emptiness of the High Arctic in the winter. Everything is white. Everything is vast. Everything is at least 3 x further away than you think it is. When the wind stops howling, there is often silence. Not the silence of a forest or field, but complete and utter pressing silence.

West side of town

Out on the ice

Desert

Midnight Sun on Van Mijenfjorden

The peak on the ridge is where the girl jumped from to save herself.

I will delve more into my adventures in this very special place.

First my apologies to everyone who has been habitually checking my blog, only to see that no I haven’t updated. Again. Tales of the past couple weeks will be coming in bits and pieces, undoubtably elaborated by my imagination filling in the gaps of memory.

Spring has sprung in Bodo. Sunrise today was at 5:41 and sunset will be at 20:28. It is amazing how fast the light is coming back! Since Good Friday the weather has been wonderful. All Easter weekend the skies were blue and the snow was melting. We’ve had a couple days of light rain, but at this point it is welcome to help melt the snow of which there is still a good covering.

April 4th

With the good weather, I’ve convinced myself to get my ass back in gear so I can play rugby this summer. There’s an astro-turf ‘football’ pitch a bit down the road that is clear and dry that I’ve been using for fitness work. The scenery on my morning runs is breathtaking.. No, wait. That’s the 3 months of watching too much Norwegian tv.  Speaking of which they are introducing TLC in Norway. As if the world needs more Jon and Kate Plus 8 and Say Yes to the Dress.

I am very envious of all the Canadians who spent their Easter in shorts or on the beach.

A long, long while ago Kayla and I vaguely talked about her coming for a visit. A while ago, just a few days before the potential weekend we talked about Kayla and I exchanged messages resembling:

Sam: I’m assuming you aren’t coming this weekend. No worries, it won’t hurt to wait until it is warmer.

Kayla: Hell yes I’m coming this weekend! My flight gets in at uhhh sometime Friday night.

So Kayla came for a visit, it was a blast and the first time we’ve seen each other in a year and the first time we’ve hung out just the two of us in a couple years. We had a busy weekend of experiencing Bodo. On Friday, we got dolled up and went out with my roommates to Vinterball. As Kayla put it, ‘Sammy, I never thought we’d be using the same mirror to put on make-up’.

In the week proceeding Kayla’s visit we got snow almost everyday, it was at least 3 ft deep in most places. This was the first real snow Kayla had seen all winter! So the Saturday saw us get out on skis together for the first time since OFSAA in high school. I think we were wayyy faster back then. It didn’t help that the classic skis I had borrowed were not properly waxed for the conditions.

While we were out on the trail, I decided it would be a good idea to show Kayla the look-out bench so she could take some great photos. We popped off our skis and I took a step off onto the side trail through the woods. And I sunk, and sunk, and sunk. Up to my hips in the snow. Undaunted we proceeded the couple 100 m’s to the look out. We kind of crawled, kind of trudged, kind of swam, but mostly floundered until we reached the lookout. It was exhausting. And of course we did this at the start of our 4 hour ski.

You would have thought we learned our lesson about trudging through the snow, but on Sunday we did it yet again. This time we took a walk along the fjord and the well tracked path turned less and less into a path until we left trudging through a cow pasture in hip deep snow.

Having exhausted our outdoorsyness for the week, we went downtown on Monday to see the sights aka. take idiotic photos and shop. I played ‘the boyfriend’ waiting patiently while Kayla tried on every single hat in the sports store, only to buy one and then go back a couple hours later to buy a second one. And I waited patiently while Kayla debated the merits of different sealskin boots. She did eventually buy a gorgeous pair of boots, of which I’m a little envious.

Bodo Harbour

Norway is actually Canada’s largest market for our seal products, in addition to having a seal harvest of their own (albeit only taking about 7% the seals Canada does). The Norwegian hunt is smaller than our commercial seal harvest and Norwegians as a people are more accepting of the seal hunt as it is seen as a fundamental part of the culture. Seal meat is relatively common place in Norway, as is whale meat from the Norwegian harvest of Minke whales. In 2005, the seal hunt in Norway was opened up to tourists.

In the mean time it seems my Russian roommate has moved out after not seeing her all Easter and we have a new roommate in the other empty room. Unfortunately, the new roommate is much more mature than myself or even the guys. I hope she tolerates us.

In honour of St. Patty’s Day, I went on a green food-dye spree. We had a vorspeil (pre-party) at our apartment with a few people from across the hall and their friends from their hometown. I made up green banana pancakes, and I even splurged on the $20 real Canadian maple syrup. The Norwegians had never seen green beer! The Norwegians were very leery of the green, they didn’t seem to realize you could even buy food dye. The pancakes were a hit and the maple syrup ‘was infinitely sweeter than I thought it would be’. Last time many of these guys came over I made cookies, I had better be careful not to create expectations.

A band made up of international students played at the local pub, which was really fun and an welcome change of pace to the usual dance mix played at Samfunnet. I took my green food dye with me and spent my time turning everyone’s beer green, whether they asked for it or not.

St. Patty’s actually felt like a very Canadian day: Pancakes and maple syrup, Canada’s Next Top Model on tv, listening to Great Big Sea during the pre-party and the Canadian-American band.